A Weekend in Seward
In August, just before teachers went back on duty for the year and our busy fall schedules began, we made a long weekend trip to Seward.
Seward is the end of the road on the east side of the Kenai Peninsula, and it’s a popular destination for summer travelers in Alaska. It is a major port for cruise ships, a turn-around point for the Alaska Railroad’s Coastal Classic, a launching pad for fishermen and wildlife viewers, and a place where many RV travelers find themselves wanting to stay for longer than just a weekend. There are several hotels and B&Bs in town, but the primary lodging option seems to be camping (either in a tent or an RV), and for good reason. The most prominent campgrounds in town are situated right on the water and the views of the mountains across Resurrection Bay are what bring people back for more. The main campgrounds in town are part of Waterfront Park. Their benefits include being right on the water and easily walkable to downtown Seward. The downside, and it’s a pretty significant one for us, is that they are essentially gravel parking lots on the beach – no real green space or trees to speak of, and only an arm’s reach from your neighbors. We opted to go a little further down the road, south of town, to Silver Derby Campground (Miller’s Landing is another popular spot down that way) where we could get a nice wooded campsite (albeit somewhat small) with a fire pit and a little more separation between us and our neighboring campers, but still be only a block from the beach. This also seemed a much nicer option for our furry friend, who could have a small but natural space to roam without the anxiety and distraction of noise and people everywhere. Most places take reservations for large groups only and are otherwise available on a first come, first served basis.
Perhaps my favorite thing about Seward is the view, and that includes the marina. There is a distinct charm to the small boat harbor in the early morning hours. The water is still and sparkling in the morning sunshine, the air is cool, the otters are indulging in a sumptuous breakfast of last night’s fish scraps, and a few lone captains prepare their boats for a day on the water. We spent mid-day on the beach near our campsite – napping in the sunshine, watching the seagulls circle the fishermen on the shore and Tim doing “zoomies” in and out of the water.
At the end of the road, near the campground, is the trailhead to hike to Tonsina Point. A fairly easy, well maintained trail winds through the temperate rainforest for just over 2 miles to the point. Hiking further, towards Caines Head, requires knowledge of the tides and a well times plan as the trail is only accessible at low tide.
Tonsina Point Trail (Updated 2023)
Other hikes in the area include Mt. Marathon, 1.5 miles up a steep grade and home to an annual July 4th trail race, and Lost Lake, a 14 mile out and back through forest and alpine meadows to the lake, with stunning views back towards Resurrection Bay. For those non-hikers, Seward also boasts excellent sea kayaking, fishing, a Sea Life Center, shopping, and multiple companies offering wildlife and glacier viewing cruises. We have taken family on these cruises in the past and have never been disappointed.
There are several options for a seafood dinner, even right on the waterfront, but we often find ourselves getting takeout from Woody’s Thai Kitchen instead. We love eating takeout on the beach and Woody’s has excellent Thai food. Zudy’s Cafe is a great spot for lunch, and ice cream from Harbor Street Creamery is a must (coffee ice cream with oreo crumbles in a cup is my fave here). Trail worn and well fed, we went back to camp and snuggled into our sleeping bags for a good night of rest.
On our way out of town on Sunday morning, we stopped at perhaps my favorite coffee shop in the world. Set in a quaint historic church, Resurrect Art Coffee House has local art and jewelry for sale, original arched windows, cozy seating in the old choir loft, and the coffee is sublime.
