Shearwater Cove

In June we took Kate and went back to Alaska for two weeks. Alaska will always hold a piece of my heart, both because of it’s wildness and for the personal growth I experienced during our years there. So, in many ways this felt like a trip home. Seward has always been one of our favorite places and I wrote a whole post about it back in 2017 which still holds up (you can read it here).

We made a mistake in the dates of one of our other lodging bookings, and in looking for an alternative Brad found Shearwater Cove. Even with the early season discount it was an expensive option, but it was just the kind of adventure we were interested in and we decided to go for it. We found it to be well worth it.

Getting there requires a 30-45 min boat ride (included in your reservation) from the Seward marina across Resurrection Bay. Our captain was Emily, a trained biologist who spends her summers in Seward and her winters in Antarctica, perpetually chasing the midnight sun. She was a great guide, and happy to stop and watch the whales and otters that we saw on the way. Resurrection Bay has a grandness to it, surrounded as it is by mountains and glacial fjords. Still, pulling up to Shearwater Cove felt like sailing into the set of Jurassic Park or Lord of the Rings.

Sailing in to the dock at Shearwater Cove

We were met at the dock by the camp host who helped us bring our things to our yurt. Shearwater Cove currently has 4 yurts that each sleep 2-4, and while we were there they were in the process of building more on the other side of the stream. The yurts are very well furnished with a queen bed, futon, table with folding chairs, kitchen area with two burner stove, sink and dishes, propane heater, and outside is a composting toilet and shower supplied by snow melt and rain water. The grounds are navigated through a series of decking paths due to it’s position next to the stream and the rocky terrain. In fact, they have a policy of no kids under age 8 due to the need for full body awareness and a sense of caution navigating the area. We were able to get an exception to this policy and bring our 3 year old along, who notably lacks both body awareness and a sense of caution. Safety was maintained through required hand holding and my brain imagining falls to the death at every turn while my face said “pay attention to your feet” through a clenched jaw smile.

The yurts are on platforms nestled along the stream in the dense mossy forest. There are three different trails on the property and we explored them all. One is a relatively short walk through the brush to the “beach” - a rocky shore covered with sea sacs and black turban snails. The weather was cool and damp for the duration of our trip, and Kate’s REI rain suit and the Xtra Tuff boots we bought her in town really kept her comfortable and able to freely navigate all the terrain we encountered without getting cold or wet.

A second trail follows the stream up and inland a little ways until it comes to a smallish waterfall. It too is a fairly short trail, but a fun one with various stream crossings on the rocks and roots. The longest and most difficult trail on the property is the alpine trail, which goes up to the peak behind the yurts and offers stunning views of Resurrection Bay and across towards Kenai Fjords. The trail is quite steep in places but Kate was able to do the whole thing with a healthy dose of encouragement and a few rests for her oh-so-tired legs.

Coming down from the alpine trail at Shearwater Cove.

Another huge perk, included in your reservation, is unlimited access to sea kayaks. Resurrection Bay is sea kayaker’s paradise and guided trips out of Seward are a popular tourist activity. The camp host recommended a trip around the corner into Humpy Cove and up into the mouth of the river. It was a beautifully calm and slightly foggy morning. Tide was low, and we saw orange and purple sea stars clinging to the rocks all over below the tide line. Once in the river, we pulled our kayak up onto the rocks and hiked a short ways up the river and around the corner to an incredible waterfall.

I love an adventure, and I am also the kind of person who needs some down time at home base every day to just chill. Reset my brain. This is even more true when our adventures include a 3 year old. I often like to read or (let’s be honest) scroll for awhile. We found a couple of winning activities on this trip to keep Kate occupied and give her a free play outlet too. During an earlier visit to the Seward SeaLife Center we had picked up a set of toys that included a diver and a collection of ocean animals. I filled the washtub from the kitchen with water, laid out a towel on the floor and set her free. This kept her engaged for quite some time! We also tried a couple of easy Lego sets for the first time and were surprised to discover how well she did with them. She needed some help on the first run through, but then she spent a lot of time over the rest of the trip taking them apart and putting them together again. Some of her other favorite activities are coloring, having snacks, and looking at pictures of herself.

This stop on our journey hit our perfect balance of adventure and comfort. If you’re looking to splurge on an adventure in Alaska, Shearwater Cove is hard to beat. I’m thrilled that we were able to make it happen and the memories will last a lifetime.

Far